From the very heart of the Mediterranean basin, Greek cuisine is made up of a wide variety of dishes mirroring the long history, the variegated landscape and the crossroads’ nature of this country.
From my personal experience in Athens Greek cuisine is full of meat (it was literally everywhere!) as traditional fish dishes are more likely to be found on the islands, vegetables and tasty savory pies (tyropita –the one with cheese- and spanakopita –filled with spinach- a.k.a. the Greek version of my beloved Balkan Burek). Wandering around downtown Athens you will find plenty of nice restaurants, taverns and cafés: here is a selection of my favorite ones!
Exploring Athens as a Vegetarian: Updated Recommendations
Ten years after writing this article, I’m back in Athens, and since I’ve become a vegetarian over the past four years, I decided it was time to update the piece with new recommendations. Athens has a growing number of vegetarian and vegan restaurants, making it easier than ever to enjoy plant-based meals in the city. Whether you’re searching for the best places to eat out in Athens or looking for top vegetarian restaurants, this updated guide will help you explore the city’s food scene.
You can find vegetarian and/or vegan versions of traditional Greek dishes at several spots across Athens, and I’ve included the best ones in this new version of the article. You can also discover more on my Athens travel map, where I’ve pinpointed all the top vegan and vegetarian spots.
Athens Food Guide: Food Markets
Athens’ Central Market
Not only foodies, but any visitor can’t miss a tour of Athens’ Central Market. During my week in Athens I went there three times: once to visit it, once to eat at its restaurants and again on my last day in town to buy some presents to bring back home, such as Greek olives, cheeses, spices and herbs.
The market is divided into two main sections: the open-air part where you will find fresh fruits, vegetables, spices and the world-known Greek olives, while within the 19th century iron-and-glass complex you will find meat and fish counters, plus some very local cafés and small restaurants to try some authentic Greek food.
The Central Market is among the places where I detected Athens’ Balkan vibe at its best: vendors shouting their prices, ladies glancing at the food counters with their well-practiced look, lots of kiosks on the streets surrounding the market complex, elderly Greek men slowly sipping a coffee at the bars within the marketplace while “supervising” the situation and that vibrant atmosphere always traversing any bazaar in any corner of the world.
As I said, once I also came here to eat: I entered one of the many small eateries within the meat-and-fish complex, I pointed at some Greek specialties through the window and tasted them with a bottle of Greek beer. The food was very good (where else could you find fresher food, anyway?), but I especially liked the atmosphere of that restaurant: both the owner and the old people sitting beside me wanted to know if I liked the food and from there they started an interesting chat about some basics of Greek cuisine and the differences between the seaside cuisine (mostly known in its Cypriot version) and the culinary traditions of the Attica region.
…and I’m back eating at Athens’ Central Market
As my favorite place to eat in Athens, I couldn’t pass up the chance to bring some readers of my blog here during our urban walks. We enjoyed an outdoor dining experience near INO’s mural, where I had a delicious meal of grilled vegetables, fava bean soup, and a refreshing Greek beer.
Farmers’ Markets in Athens
If you are into food and food markets, as I am, you should also know that Saturday is the day of farmers’ markets in Athens: each neighborhood has its own farmers’ market and I visited the one in Exarchia and the one in Perissos, both very interesting for the way they mingle with the characteristic traits of the neighborhood where they take place.
The Farmers’ Market in Exarchia
At the farmers’ market in Exarchia the backdrop to every stand is a street art mural, as Exarchia is known to be the colorful neighborhood of anarchist students. Some of these murals are about politics, as suits this ever-rebellious neighborhood surrounded by police squads in full riot gear, others are just beautiful, and the mixed effect of the street art and the farmers’ products will amaze you!
The Farmers’ Market in Perissos
Located in a former industrial area in the northern suburbs of Athens, the farmers’ market in Perissos will surprise you with its abandoned chimneys appearing behind the stands. Nearby you can also enter a former factory now transformed into a huge supermarket: the big industrial structure is just a few steps away from the farmers’ market.
The Farmers’ Market in Kypseli
Ten years later, I’m back in Athens, and Kypseli has become my favorite neighborhood. One of the first places I explored was the local farmers’ market, which is alive with vibrant stalls brimming with fresh, seasonal products—from colorful fruits and vegetables to olives, fragrant herbs, and homemade delicacies.
But this market offers more than just the freshest ingredients; it provides a true window into the daily life of Kypseli’s community. Locals gather here and chat with friendly vendors, creating a warm and welcoming atmosphere. It’s the perfect place to immerse yourself in the authentic spirit of this neighborhood and truly feel the heart of Athens.
Athens Food Guide: Restaurants
To Steki Tou Ilia (Thissio)
On my first night in Athens I ate at this traditional Psistaria (a restaurant serving grilled meat) in the nice area of Thissio, just outside the tourist radar. This is an authentic eatery frequented by locals, very simple and definitely not pretentious. Here I had a cabbage salad and some very tender lamb chops, served with a glass of the house wine: it was one of those especially welcoming dinners that gives you a foretaste of all the delicious meals coming next!
Manas Kouzina Kouzina (Agias Irinis)
Just a few steps from the hip area of Agias Irinis, Manas Kouzina Kouzina is a simple place where you can eat traditional Greek food while looking at the bustle on Ailou street from a big window. The service is fast as all the food is already made and you will choose it through the glass counter, but this doesn’t mean that the quality is low, quite the contrary!
Gazi College (Gazi)
[Update 2020: unfortunately this spot closed permanently]
The Gazi district, a former industrial area, became the trendy place to be, where clubs and fancy cocktail bars are mushrooming all around, gay clubs included. Bustling at night, the Gazi district doesn’t lose its charm during the day and it is certainly easier to enjoy Gazi’s restaurants without the night crowd. My pick was the Gazi College, a hipster restaurant whose walls are covered by a wooden bookshelf and it has globes and reproductions of the solar system all around. The food choice isn’t traditional at all, featuring a wide range of burgers and salads, but the food is good and the hip vibe is making it even better!
Rozalia (Exarchia)
While planning my week in Athens, I noticed almost everybody discourages visitors from entering Exarchia. I didn’t give too much importance to that advice and I actually stayed in Exarchia instead and, while having dinner at Rozalia restaurant, I noticed many other visitors weren’t scared to enter Exarchia either: Rozalia was actually the only restaurant where I met fellow foreigners! I am not implying that the restaurant is touristic or the food is low quality, though, and I had a great traditional dinner here! (…maybe a bit too heavy, but that’s Greek food! And anyway, if you feel replete, you can always call the resident cat to your table and he will love to help you finish your meal :-) ). Here I had a vegetable pie (a kind of burek 2.0: it is fried!!) and pork souvlaki from a very tender meat, both very tasty!
Yperokeanio (Syntagma)
[Update 2020: unfortunately this spot has permanently closed]
I noticed this hidden alley while wandering around downtown Athens and I already loved it for what it looked like on that lazy holiday morning.
Little did I know that this charming alley hosted a lovely restaurant (the best place that I ate at in Athens, actually) that gives off a nice smell and jazz music at night! This restaurant is very tiny, a true hidden gem: there is a small kitchen in view and some tables in the alley. The food is simple and tasty and the atmosphere is really pleasant! The place is so cute I couldn’t help falling in love with it!
Ergon Bakehouse Athens (Monastiraki)
Probably the best place I ate at during my most recent trip to Athens. I first visited with street artist Gera1, who thankfully called ahead to reserve a spot. When I tried to return on my last day, the place was packed—so I highly recommend booking in advance, just as Gera1 did for our visit. Here, you can try a variety of Greek dishes, with the baked goods being a standout. Don’t miss the peynirly, a pizza originally from Turkey—it’s a must! They also have plenty of vegetarian options. The venue is a hotel too, and there’s a stunning mural by INO at the entrance, adding to the charm of the place.
Onos Taverna (Koukaki)
Onos Taverna is nestled in the vibrant neighborhood of Koukaki, an area brimming with restaurants, cafés, breweries, and artists’ studios. This traditional Greek restaurant offers a vegetarian moussaka made with minced mushrooms instead of meat, which I absolutely loved. The rosé wine was fantastic too, making it the perfect spot to enjoy a relaxed meal while soaking in the lively atmosphere of Koukaki.
Athens Food Guide: Vegetarian and Vegan Restaurants
In Athens, you’ll find plenty of plant-based restaurants. Here are the ones I’ve loved:
Mama Tierra (Exarchia)
This small but well-known vegan restaurant in Athens specializes in vegan versions of traditional Greek dishes. Their vegan soutzoukakia was so delicious that we ordered it twice! (and forgot to take a picture -twice!) The atmosphere is super informal, and the owner is incredibly kind, making it one of the best places to enjoy vegan food in Athens. It’s a must-visit for anyone looking for a relaxed dining experience with authentic, plant-based Greek dishes.
The Joshua Tree Cafe (Mets)
The Joshua Tree Café is a popular vegan café in Athens, offering a variety of international, plant-based dishes. Known for its casual, 60s-inspired vibe, this spot features healthy options like Beyond Meat hot dogs and vegan pancakes, making it a favorite for those seeking modern vegan meals in the city. Located in the Mets neighborhood, this vegan café attracts a hip crowd, perfect for a relaxed meal or coffee.
Athens Food Guide: Cafés, Tea Rooms, Pubs and more
Santo Belto (Kypseli)
Santo Belto is the quintessential café that draws in the hipster crowd, especially the artists and creatives who have recently moved to Kypseli. Known for its specialty coffee and carefully curated selection of organic wines, it’s a favorite among those who enjoy a relaxed yet trendy atmosphere. The minimalist design and cozy vibe make it the perfect spot for working or socializing. As I mentioned earlier, Kypseli is now my favorite neighborhood in Athens, and Santo Belto adds to its charm with a welcoming space for the local creative community.
Kain (Mets)
This charming bar in the Mets area becomes even more striking with a stunning mural by Athens-based street artist TAXIS. Drawing inspiration from the bar’s name, Kain, TAXIS illustrated a powerful scene based on the biblical story of fratricide, giving the space an intense and captivating atmosphere. It’s a must-see for street art enthusiasts!
Bel Ray (Koukaki)
Yet another hipster bar in a neighborhood that’s highly populated by artists and creatives, adding to the vibrant and trendy atmosphere of the area. Bel Ray, located in Koukaki, offers a laid-back, light-filled space perfect for enjoying breakfast, lunch, or working from your laptop. With its creative crowd and popular dishes like croque monsieur, it’s a great spot to relax or get some work done. The outdoor seating is ideal for soaking in the neighborhood’s energy, making it a local favorite for both residents and visitors.
Horiatiko Bakery (several locations around Athens)
Hands down, my favorite bakery in Athens. Known for its fresh, handcrafted bread, pastries, and a wide variety of baked goods, Horiatiko has a strong focus on using top-quality ingredients. From their delicious sesame-coated koulouri to their traditional pies and sweet treats, every product here feels like a genuine slice of Greek culinary tradition. It’s a must-visit for anyone looking to indulge in authentic Greek bakery delights!
Peonia Herbs (Thissio)
A very cute tea room with a mezzanine where you can get your own customized blend choosing from many different qualities of tea. Here I bought a Tibetan black tea to bring back home (and I am sipping it right now, while writing about how lovely this tea room is…), they have a wide selection of teas and infusions and some intimate tables where you can sit down and taste them. The place smells of wood and herbs, the atmosphere is very relaxed and calming, the tea menu is only in Greek but the friendly waiter will surely help you!
Cantina Social (Psyrri)
Well, this is one of those places that instantly get a special spot in my travel memories, because it is lovely without aiming to be trendy, hipster or anything. Where I arrived there was an old radio tuned into Greek music and some old Greek men having a great time ;-)
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I started to chat with the owner while he attempted to make me a cappuccino (“Is it coffee and ice, right?”), he has some relatives living in Italy and of course he knows all about Italian football and so, by the time I got my cappuccino (“It’s the first cappuccino I made in my life!”), my new friend was sitting at my table and the ice was broken (which –luckily- didn’t end up inside the coffee!). The place also has a nice outdoor garden, but unfortunately my week in Athens was exceptionally cold and rainy and so I didn’t have a chance to enjoy the outdoor area.
Yozen (Kolonaki)
[Update 2020: Unfortunately this spot doesn’t exist anymore]
I walked all my way up to the posh neighbourhood of Athens just to taste the pure Greek frozen yogurt from this shop. If you are a foodie, this is an experience you really can’t miss! As in any frozen yogurt bar you will find many different toppings to choose between; I went for puffed rice and Goji berries and my yogurt was really yummy! Just be sure to go for the smaller size, as it is already a full meal by itself.
Booze Cooperativa (Syntagma)
Another great place to hang out at night, but not just. It has a long wooden table to share with young people working on their laptops and chess players absorbed by their game, a mezzanine floor that gives a bird’s eye view on the hipster furniture, high ceilings, lamps that can easily be considered art installations and an underground art gallery, which unfortunately was closed during my week in Athens.
Nosotros (Exarcheia)
[Update 2020: Unfortunately this spot doesn’t exist anymore]
I went to this place with the street artist STMTS. It is a squat inside the ever-rebellious Exarchia, so you can expect a simple selection of food and beverages spiced up by an alternative crowd, a wide range of cultural activities and discussions, some street art and the feeling of being right where “the movement” spread from. The centre organizes several classes and workshops, movie screenings and many other events, and there you can also find a music studio and a library.
Find these places and more cool spots in my always-updated Athens google map!
